Sunday, January 21, 2018

Caravan Finished

So, I finished up my caravan and I learned a lot and grew a lot while working on this project and running into issues and having to solve them. I learned how to bake in marmoset and that was a lot of fun and I think my texturing has improved, so I'm happy with this project. There is definitely stuff that I could go back and fix, but overall I am happy with the outcome.


Unreal Engine Shots














Thanks For Checking it Out!!!



Friday, January 19, 2018

Update Caravan

Just updating my caravan. It took a lot longer because I decided to give Marmoset Toolbags Baking a try and learn the program. I really like Marmosets Baking because of its Cage system, which I thought was really nice. I might have to implement it into my pipeline for now on. I also jumped into substance and textured the caravan. Images below. Ill update again once I get it into unreal.



Substance Screen Shots



Substance Iray Renders




























Thanks For Checking it Out

UPDATE



Unreal Engine Shots





Unreal Engine Shots

Thanks For Checking it Out






Thursday, November 16, 2017

Update

Sorry, I'm a little late on posting this week. I've just been working on some high res sculpts for my personal piece and I've also been working on baking them and getting them into engine. I finally have some pretty good looking stuff in my scene, and that's what I'll be showing. I still need to actually work on lighting and finishing up some more high polys for this scene. I'm really excited to see how this is coming along though. Thx for checking it out




 Thanks Again



Sunday, November 5, 2017

Personal Project/ 3D Print Class

Personal Project

So this week I started on some high polys for my personal project, and some things I ran into trouble, and others went really smoothly. I've also been trying to learn the zmodeler brush more so that I don't have to leave zbrush and can just stay in the program instead of switching back and forth between maya and zbrush. Its a really awesome brush that can do so much its freaking awesome!!! Below I have some screenshots labeled with the asset name(highpolys).

Emergency exit hatch door high poly






Space Suit Pod High Poly








Some high-poly floor panels


Other

3D Print Class

So this week for the 3d Print class I had to make rocks and boy was that harder than I thought lol. If there is one thing I learned from making rocks, the trim smooth border brush is god like with a square alpha equipped.(Update) Trim Smooth Border brush can be found in the brushes tab under LightBox in the Trim Folder. Definitely recommend it for making rocks. Another thing about making rocks for table top was that we wanted to have rocks that people could place their characters on so it has to be able to stand up and have a character on it. This was hard to implement, because rocks are organic in nature and most rocks don't have flat 90 degree tops and bottoms, so that was something we had to figure out. But, we did what we thought was right and still made some interesting rocks for people to use for their table top games. We will have to send it to the printer this coming week 11/6/2017 and hopefully all goes well with that. Screen shots of the rock below

Rock for table top before flattening the top and bottoms


This is the rock after we flattened the top and bottom. The last image shows what the bottom of the rock looks like.









Thanks for checking out my work!!!

Friday, October 20, 2017

3D Print Update (10/16 - 10/20)

Just updating what I've been working on this week for 3D Print. I made a crate that we are printing today and I'll have screenshots of the physical object later tonight. I'm also working on a power point to talk about 3D print. Here are some basic things that can be helpful.

Know what you're printing and how much detail you want. FDM Printer VS. SLA Printer
SLA prints the highest level of detail at .025 microns(micrometers)
1 micron = 3.93701e-5 inches

FDM printer is better for bigger prototypes

We use the Form Labs Form 2 printers at UCF that are available to any students that are majoring in certain majors like Digital Media, Engineering(don't remember all the majors).

If you are printing small objects I would recommend that you don't hollow out the middle of the object, but you can if you want to. Its personal preference and if you do hollow out the model you will save time and cost of resin material.

The Form Labs Form 2 printer comes with its own software to check the model to make sure it is print ready. It accepts STL. and OBJ. file types. I'll have some images below of how I check the model.

Here is the Wooden Crate I made this week




Here is my process for checking my mesh in Zbrush to make sure it is print ready. I also want to say that I won't be going much into hollowing out the mesh in this post.

1. If I'm able to I try to dynamesh my mesh when I'm done with everything because that creates a water tight mesh and closes any holes that could be in the mesh and could cause issues later.
2.  Next, right before I'm about to export to Preform. In Zbrush I go to Geometry>MeshIntegrity> CheckMeshIntegrity(if  Mesh integrity test completed successfully skip step 3)
3. Click Fix Mesh integrity if the check failed in the last step(Image Below)



4. Now time to export the mesh. I believe that the best way to export the mesh is to export as a STL file because it doesn't store certain info that an OBJ stores. But, if you want to export as an OBJ then you have to remember to go to export in the Tool menu and uncheck Grp(Image Below)


5. If you export as STL go to Zplugin>3D Print Hub>Export to STL(Image Below)





6. You are now ready to bring your mesh into Preform if you are printing on the Form Labs Form 2 Printer.

7. This is Preform when you first open it. Preform asks you what resolution you want to print at and what type of resin are you going to be using. Certain resins do not print at higher resolutions, so keep that in mind when choosing which resin is best for you. We went with a black resin, because it prints at the highest resolution of 25 microns on the form printer.You can go to File> Open> and select .stl or .obj(there are more file types, but this is what I mostly used).

8. Preform when you first open it






 9. Once your model is in the program you want to generate some support structures so that your model isn't just being built on the build platform. If you don't have support structures, depending on what you make. It can mess up the print and waste time. Click the button in the image below to open the support structure menu and I usually just click generate all, but you can mess with the sliders to have thicker/thinner structs or to have more/less structs. Generate all works really good for us though.




10. After generating the structs, I would scroll through the layers of the mesh to make sure that I have no islands or things that could cause the print to fail. In the first image below, I left an example of an island which is basically a piece of the print that has no support struct to it and isn't connected to the whole print, so it can break off and end up ruinning the whole print. This is a no no. The second image shows how things should look if done correctly when scrolling through the layers which is the blue outlined scroll wheel thing on the right of the screen.





. After checking to make sure all of that is fine you are now ready to print. Click the button in he 11. After checking to make sure all of that is fine you are now ready to print. Click the button in the image below and it will bring up a print menu. Find the printer you want to send it to and then just click print.





12. Once you send it to the printer a little display will pop up on the actual form labs form 2 printer with your model and some info about it. It displays how long it will print, how many layers, how much resin is used and the resolution. Hit the Print Now button and it will print after how long it says on the machine.




13. Once the print is done. I would scoop it off of the build platform and then dump it into the isopropyl alcohol to get rid of any excess resin. Make sure to wear gloves and eyewear just to be safe.



14. After that I would place it in some water just to get any more excess resin that the alcohol didn't get and then I would put it into a uv chamber or sunlight for about 10 minutes. Sometimes longer or shorter. You will know to take it out of the sun when it is no longer sticky to the touch because the resin is cured. UV chamber image below.



15. Now time for some Pre-processing. Time to cut off those support structs that you added in the Preform software. You are going to have to sand down those support structs, because they leave little nibs on your model, and you don't want that. Also if there is an small issues with the mesh you can add some Plasticine to fill those holes and sculpt back over the model. You may have to sculpt back in some detail. Once you are happy with the model though you can now move forward and get ready to make a mold so that you can cast the mold and make copies.


16. This is what I used to make the mold. Basically it was two solutions that when poured together create a chemical reaction that then hardens. First image shows the stuff that I bought that makes the silicon mold. Second Image shows the box mold that I made, and the mixing of the two chemicals. Once you are done, wait about 30 minutes depending on how much you mix and your mold should be done. Remember to pour slowly to not make air bubbles and to always wear gloves and eye wear. Also make sure to never pour this stuff down a drain or anything like that. Throw away in the trash.



17. Once you are done, pull the original model out of the mold and you now have your mold ready to go. Now it is time to pour the cast into the mold. You have to pour this pretty fast, because it hardens really quickly, but pour it as slow as you can to not make air bubbles. The image below shows what I used to make the cast. It is similar to the mold stuff, because you mix one part to the other part and it makes a chemical reaction that then solidifies.



18. Now all you have to do is sand down your cast with some sand paper and you have some really nice models. In the image below, I've started to sand down some crates and barrels.


19. And then you can make a board or use a board and play with your pieces






20. Thanks for checking out my work







21. Some final thoughts about 3D printing this semester for me to look back on(in no logical order)

  • Pre plan as much as you can especially if you are making a mold
  • Pour everything slowly or you will have air bubbles and have to do it again(mold/cast)
  • If you hollow out the mesh, make sure to always have a hole to release excess resin. Also, always have this hole facing the build platform to release excess heat that may try to form
  • If you are making a big character or something that doesn't fit within the build volume of the printer then you will have to key it up with male and female keys


21.










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